So, here’s what’s up: I lost my job and reached my early retirement savings goal (the lean FIRE thing). So, I thought, why not take a break from work?
I recently went on a 12-day trip to Portugal, not once, but twice, to see if it’s a good place to retire. And you know what? My feelings about it changed a bit, but I still think Portugal is a great spot for travelling.
The natural beauty in Portugal is breathtaking, no doubt about it. However, there’s something I noticed. It might not be as budget-friendly as people often say, even though I went in February.
On the bright side, the food there is still pretty affordable. But I must admit, the accommodation cost was a bit surprising. It almost matched the prices I’m used to in the USA.
Speaking of people, I found that most Portuguese are nice and helpful. And also, their transportation system is definitely better than what I’m used to in the USA.
Alright, enough with the intro. Let’s dive into the details of my 12-day trip itinerary!
Three days in Lisbon – Sintra, Pena Palace, Castle de Morish, and Ursa Beach
Ticket cost international round trip for two: $1286.50
Ticket cost round trip from Madeira to Lisbon for two: $173.80
Day 1 – Arrived in Lisbon Airport
When we arrived, we got a Vodafone SIM card right away. It was a store in front of an escalator after we arrived. It gave us 10GB of data for 25 euros. I didn’t research much about the SIM card; I bought it at the airport because I felt lazy. Surprisingly, the process is pretty easy. The guy with a red t-shirt helped us set it up. The SIM card allowed me to make calls anywhere in Portugal, and the internet speed was pretty good.
We stayed in Lisbon for three days at this Airbnb. The closest station is Rosio station, about 10-15 minutes walk.
Total cost for four nights: $416.19 USD.
Day 2 – Sintra, Pena Palace, and Moorish Castle
Total activity cost = 44 euros
The ticket cost for Pena Palace was 14 euros per person, and Moorish Castle was 8 euros per person.
We visited Pena Palace and Moorish Castle in Sintra. To get there, we took a train from Rosio station. We stopped by a café to get some bread and Pasta de Nada (Portuguese Custard Tarts) and then continued to Sintra station.
Sintra station is the last stop on the line, so if you want to visit Sintra, that’s where you should get off. Be aware that there’s another station with a similar name, Gates of Sintra, but it’s in a modern residential area outside of Sintra.
The tickets were a bit confusing at first, but we bought the tourist travel card for 6 euros a day per person. The ticket machine wasn’t very user-friendly (English translation is available though), and unfortunately, the staff at the time were a bit rude to us. However, the train itself was clean and comfortable.
Just keep in mind that Pena Palace and Moorish Castle are not close to Sintra station. Pena Palace is about an hour’s walk, mostly uphill. So, we decided to take a tuk-tuk, those small three-wheeled vehicles that can navigate narrow streets. We skipped the Sintra Tourist Bus 434 because it was costly (about 15 euros round trip), and we heard it could get very crowded and sometimes run late.
We found that transportation, in general, was quite affordable. The buses could be a bit late sometimes, but overall, it was still better than what we were used to in the US.
We walked to Moorish Castle from Pena Palace, which took about 20 minutes. It was a bit downhill, so not too strenuous, but the walk-in Moorish Castle itself was a bit tough. We found a small café there and grabbed a quick bite while petting a stray cat.
A quick tip: Wear comfortable shoes. Most sidewalks and roads are made of cobblestone, so high heels would be very uncomfortable. By the end of the day, we had walked almost 20,000 steps, which is about 8.5 miles.
There are other interesting places to check out, like Quinta da Regaleira, but we skipped it to save money and take our time during the trip. Overall we like Moorish Castle, but we found Pena Palace is a bit too crowded.
Day 3: Cabo da Roca and Praia Da Ursa
Total activity cost: 0
Cabo da Roca is actually the westernmost point of mainland Europe. If you stand there, you’ll be at the very edge of the continent, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It’s known for its stunning cliffs and rugged coastline, making it a popular tourist destination and an excellent spot for breathtaking ocean views.
Praia da Ursa, on the other hand, is a beautiful beach located near Cabo da Roca. It is famous for its rugged and wild natural beauty. However, to reach there, visitors often need to navigate a steep and somewhat challenging trail, but the reward is stunning. You’ll find a less crowded beach with towering cliffs, golden sands, and the soothing sounds of the Atlantic waves crashing against the shore.
To reach Praia da Ursa from Lisbon, there are two ways. You can either go to Sintra and take the 403 bus and stop in Cabo da Roca, or go to Cascais and hop on the 403 bus. Check out the below resources on how to plan your trip to Praia Da Ursa.
https://www.lisbonbeachesguide.com/sintra/praia-da-ursa-beach.html
https://luggageandlife.com/how-to-get-to-praia-da-ursa/
The bus costs about 4 – 5 euros, and we couldn’t use the traveler or Lisbon zapping cards. So, we used cash. The bus dropped us at Cabo da Roca.
Remember that there is no facility at Praia da Ursa, so bring everything you need. We brought bottles of water, snacks like hard-boiled eggs and sandwiches, sunscreen, and towels.
We use the bathroom at Cabo da Roca because we know we’ll be walking a lot. From Cabo da Roca to the beach, the walk is admittedly very far and difficult. It took us 45 minutes to go to the beach (one way), and it’s pretty slippery. I’d not recommend going there if you cannot complete a strenuous hike.
Day 4: Rest in the Airbnb
My legs hurt a lot at this point. My husband and I walked a whopping 40,000 steps in just two days. I have to admit, I wouldn’t recommend it. We didn’t expect to do so much walking. Our initial idea was to check out Belem Tower, but honestly, I needed a good rest at that point.
5 Days in Madeira
Day 5: Flying to Madiera
Our next stop is Madeira, and I’m genuinely curious about this island because it’s on my radar as a potential place for early retirement (FIRE). Madeira has this unique charm that reminds me of the islands I used to explore in video games like Crash Bandicoot. While you can cover a lot of ground in about a week, I’m sure there are hidden gems waiting to be uncovered beyond the usual tourist attractions.
We stayed in Funchal downtown, explored the local night market, and got some ice cream.
We also rent a car for $122 for five days for a smart car with a local company, which is not bad. The name of the company is 7m.
Total cost for six nights: $522.19 USD.
It’s worth nothing that Madiera has a microclimate, which means the weather can be quite different from one area of the island to another. To ensure you have the best experience during your visit, it’s a good idea to plan ahead. Check the weather forecast and live webcams for the specific areas you’ll be exploring so you can make the most of your trip.
Day 6: Madiera Monte Palace Tropical Garden and Cable Car
Total activity cost: 45 euros
- Ticket to Monte Palace Tropical Garden: 12.5 Euros per person
- Cable car round trip: 20 Euros per person
Because we stayed in the Funchal, the cable car is walkable from our apartment. To save money, we made our own breakfast. There are many cafes nearby, so we bought couple of bread so that we can enjoy them in the garden. Bread, muffin and pastal de nada are surprisingly affordable, it’s around 0.5 – 3 euros per item.
The cable car waiting time was around 15-20 minutes, so be aware of this and plan accordingly. It’s a shared cable car. We enjoy the scenic ride up the hill and beautiful views of Funchal, the coastline, and the surrounding landscapes. The cable car ride is not just transportation; it’s also an attraction in itself.
Once we reach the top of the cable car ride, we reached the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. We took some time to explore this stunning garden, which features exotic plants, lakes, and cultural exhibits. The views from this vantage point are also incredible.
After our explorations in Monte, take the cable car back down to Funchal. This provides another opportunity to appreciate the beautiful scenery.
We had a nice evening in Funchal. We walked around the streets and liked being by the water. We also checked out their McDonald’s and were surprised to find vegetable soup on the menu because we had never found this in US Mcdonald’s. Their food seemed healthier, with less sugar and salt.
Day 7: Levada Das 25 Fontes and Risco Waterfall, Cascata dos Anjos, Ponta do Sol, Cape Girao, Pico do Arieiro
Total activity cost: 0
All of the activities are free. We packed lunch and snack, and spend ~10 euros for coffee and quick bites
in Cape Girao.
Morning: Levada Das 25 Fontes and Risco Waterfall
We took a leisurely hike along the Levada (irrigation channel) through lush greenery and picturesque scenery.
Explore the magical “25 Fontes” (25 Springs) area, where you’ll find a series of waterfalls cascading down into a natural pool.
Lunch: Ponta do Sol
After the hike, we drove to Ponta do Sol, a charming seaside town, for a relaxing lunch by the ocean.
Afternoon: Cape Girão
We arrived at Cape Girao. It was about an hour of half drive from Ponta do Sol.
Cape Girão is one of Europe’s highest sea cliffs. It offers breathtaking panoramic views of the coastline and the Atlantic Ocean. We took a walk on the suspended glass platform for a thrilling experience.
Late Afternoon: Pico do Arieiro
We drove to Pico do Arieiro, the third-highest peak on Madeira, to see the sunset. However, the weather was not too great during our visit so we couldn’t enjoy the highest peak view.
But during typical weather, you could enjoy a scenic drive and take a short hike to admire the island’s breathtaking views.
Here is the google map that shows points of our destination.
Day 7: Exploring Madeira’s East Coast: Ponta do Sao Laorenco and Santana
Total activity cost: 0
Morning
We woke up early and planned to wake up at 4 a.m., and head to Achada do Teixeira to see the sunrise at Pico Ruivo. It takes about an hour to drive from Funchal. Then, the hike will be one hour and a half each way.
However, the weather forecast didn’t look too great, so we decided to wait and check the webcam, and unfortunately, it looked so cloudy. I was disappointed but headed to Ponta de Sao Lourenço to glimpse the coastal scenery. The weather was drastically different. It was suddenly lovely and sunny when we got there.
As a side note, this was an alternative; if we could see Pico Ruivo, we wouldn’t probably go to Sao Lourenco because it would have been too much of a walk.
As usual, we packed lunch and drinks to save time (and a little bit of money).
Mid-Morning
We drove to Sao Lourenco, about 35 minutes away from Funchal, all geared up for a three-hour hike. But let me tell you, it got pretty windy, and the trail was quite crowded. They say it’s a three-hour hike, but in reality, it can take longer. We didn’t even make it all the way because it’s got some challenging parts with lots of stairs, and we had to pause now and then to let others pass.
Afternoon
We explored Santana, Portugal, known for its traditional triangular thatched houses.
Here’s a tip: Balcoes Viewpoint is impressive if the weather looks good. I wish the weather weren’t gloomy so I could have checked it out. Before you head there, take a peek at the webcam and check the current weather conditions to ensure you’ll have a clear view from the viewpoint.
Late Afternoon
Return to Funchal.
Throughout the day, remain flexible with your plans based on the weather and visibility. The nice thing about Madeira is that it offers a different variety of weather, so if it’s gloomy in one area, you can often find sunny skies and clear views elsewhere on the island.
Exploring Madiera’s East Coast
Day 8: Exploring Madiera West: Fanal Forest, Porto Moniz, Ilheus da Janela
Total activity cost: 10 euros (Achadas da Cruz, Cable Car)
Morning: Fanal Forest
As usual, we started the day in Funchal, Portugal. We grabbed a quick breakfast at a local café before setting out, and brought some snacks and water. From Funchal, it takes about an hour.
We headed to Fanal Pond, a beautiful natural spot. This enchanting forest is known for its ancient trees and lush greenery. I think the best time to experience the enchantment of Fanal Forest is during foggy conditions, which add a mystical and moody atmosphere to the scenery. Our tip is to visit early in the morning to increase the chances of fog.
Late Morning: Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela and Miradouro da Eira da Achada
Miradouro da Eira da Achada
Miradouro da Eira da Achada is a must-visit viewpoint that offers breathtaking vistas of Madeira’s landscape. It is a concise walk from the parking station.
It’s worth spending about 30 minutes to an hour here, depending on how long you want to enjoy the views. From this viewpoint, you’ll be treated to stunning panoramic island scenes. It’s not too far from Fanal Forest, making it a convenient stop on your journey.
Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela
Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela is a fantastic coastal place with remarkable rocks right near the beach. You can see the sunrise over the ocean here and watch many swallows flying around the cool-shaped rocks. It’s a unique spot to check out in Madeira.
You can park your car before the beach and see the tall rock formations right away when you drive into town. We spent about half an hour at Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela, sitting on the remarkable rocks and enjoying the beach. This is a good spot for the beautiful sunrise and the golden glow of the rugged coastline.
Afternoon: Porto Moniz Natural Swimming Pools
After grabbing lunch, we headed to the Porto Moniz Natural Swimming Pool. As the name suggests, these pools get water from the ocean’s tides and waves, making it a calm and chill spot. It’s just a 10-minute drive from Ribeira da Janela or around 50 minutes from Funchal.
We found a café nearby, and in the afternoons, there’s a kiosk selling snacks, ice cream, drinks, and beer. It costs €3 per person to enter, and you can get a locker for €5 (with a refundable €5 deposit). That’s a pretty good deal. There are plenty of changing facilities and showers too. The water might feel chilly at first, but it warms up.
For just 3 euros, you can have a family-friendly day of swimming, snorkeling, and exploring. It’s quite a bargain, especially considering a $6 swimming pool entry in the US doesn’t have this incredible view.
Late Afternoon: Achadas da Cruz, Cable Car and Pebble of Achadas
We made our way to Achadas da Cruz, Portugal. This charming village is known for its breathtaking views and steep cable car ride.
The cable car offers an exciting ride, considered one of Europe’s steepest. As we descended, we saw breathtaking views of massive cliffs and a lovely farm area below. The cable car glides down a super steep slope of 98%, covering 451 meters in just 5 minutes along a 600-meter-long cable. And the cost? It’s a reasonable, 5 euros.
This took us about 30 minutes to an hour to explore the charming farm and the stunning coastline. Don’t worry about restrooms; they have them at both ends. It’s crucial to check when the cable car opens and closes. If you’re afraid of heights, that’s okay—I am too. But I found the ride surprisingly peaceful, mainly because I was with other people.
Watch the cable car’s closing time and the last ride back up. Missing it means a one-hour hike back, which can be tiring. When we visited, we ran late with 15 people ahead of us, but thankfully, the staff let us wait. So, plan your visit carefully to avoid that uphill hike!
Late Afternoon: Ponta do Pargo
Generally, in Madiera, sunset times range from 6 to 8 pm. So we are headed to Ponta do Pargo lighthouse which is about 25 minutes from Achada da Cruz.
The lighthouse stands about a thousand feet above sea level on a cliff, offering niceviews. There’s a small, free museum at the lighthouse, but it’s quite brief, maybe 2 minutes. The views, however, are
We spent about 15-20 minutes there, and parking was ample. Just note that there are no restroom facilities at the site.
Evening:
Return to Funchal, Portugal, to wrap up our day. We returned the car and filled up the gas, even though it was a bit pricey. That roundabout we encountered was a highlight, but those speed limit changes, like going from 80 km to 60 km and then back to 80 km, weren’t our favorite. Thankfully, the directions remained easy to follow.
Tip: Try the famous “espetada” (skewered meat) for an authentic taste of Madeira.
Day 9: Rest in the apartment
On this day, we made a relaxed plan. We strolled through Funchal City and explored the vibrant fruit market.
Day 11: Flying to Lisbon and buying souvenirs
We caught a Bolt right from our hotel, and to our surprise, it was pretty cheap only about 8 euros. We also picked up some souvenirs like Madeira chocolate and wine, and the prices were surprisingly reasonable, even at the airport.
After arriving in Lisbon, we stayed in a hotel in Lisbon for around $99 a night.
Day 12: Obidos
Total activity cost: 0 (We took a bus from Lisbon to Obidos which cost 9 euros per person) each way, but the visit to the town itself is free)
Óbidos is this lovely medieval town, and the cool part is, it’s only an hour away from Lisbon.
We decided to take the Rodotejo bus, and it cost us 9.5 euros per person. Finding the bus station in Lisbon was a bit of a challenge, so here’s a tip: give yourself an extra 30 minutes to find the bus stop.
Check out these resources for more info.
How much did we spend on the trip for two adults?
Flight: $1460
Entertainment: $105 (99 euros)
Lodging: $1037
Food/restaurants: $330
Car rental in Madiera: $122
Transportation (Bus/train/Bolt): $144
Mobile data plan $28 (25 euros)
Gas: $120
Lyft round trip in the US: ~$100
Souvenir: $85 (80 euros)
Total: ~$3531, which brings to ~$1765 per person for 12 days
I’m glad we made this trip because it helped us narrow down our decision for the next country we want to stay! Anyway, I hope this post helps!
Vi, a software engineer with a keen interest in personal finance, had planned to retire once she reached her lean FI/RE (Financial Independence/Retire Early) goal. However, after achieving the goal, she took few months of a mini-retirement filled with travel and adventure and decided to continue her career.
For the past five years, Vi has been using Personal Capital (Empower), a free financial tool. Her favorite features include the dashboard for net worth, allocation, and planning, which help track her FI/RE goal and keep those investment fees in check.